Have I Died and Gone to Heaven?

Nias has been pumping for the past couple of weeks, throwing cloudy green curtains for any surfer skilful enough to make the drop. This day was particularly delicious.

I almost didn't bring my Go Pro because was onshore, but after half an our the wind switch offshore, the waves started barreling and got uncrowded. I was so stoked for getting so barreled in one surf session that I couldn't believe it, for sure a day to remember.

Eu quase não surfei com a minha Go Pro porque o vento estava maral, mas depois de meia hora o vento mudou pra terral, as ondas começaram a quebrar so tubo e a crowd diminuiu. Eu estava amarradao por pegar altos tubos em uma surf session, eu não estava acreditando, realmente um dia pra se relembrar.

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